Protecting Fruit Trees from Rabbits and Voles Over Winter
Rabbits clip branches and gnaw bark above the snow line. Voles chew under the snow and through mulch. A quarter inch hardware cloth cylinder, buried at th...
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fruit trees rabbits voles winter tree guards
Protecting Fruit Trees from Rabbits and Voles Over Winter
Both pests kill young fruit trees the same way: they chew the bark all the way around the trunk. That cuts off the flow of food from the leaves to the roots, and the tree dies. Once a trunk is fully girdled there is no spray, paint, or wrap that fixes it. The only real fix is a physical barrier put up before winter feeding starts.
Put a cylinder of quarter inch hardware cloth around each trunk, bury the bottom a few inches, and run it up to at least 18 inches above your usual snow depth. That one guard handles both animals. Install it by early to mid-November and take it off in spring.
New to a fruit tree or thinking about planting one? See how to plant a bare root fruit tree.
How the Two Animals Differ
| Rabbits | Voles | |
|---|---|---|
| What you see | Clean, angled cuts on branch tips; bark chewed off smooth young trunks | Narrow winding runways in the grass, about 1 to 2 inches wide; bark missing at or below ground level |
| When they feed | Year round, worst in winter when food is scarce | Under snow cover and mulch, mostly unnoticed until spring |
| How high they reach | Commonly 2 to 3 feet above the snow line (Penn State) | Ground level, plus roots and buried crowns |
| Damage signature | Girdled trunk, clipped twigs | Girdled trunk under the snow, eaten roots, chewed perennial crowns |
Nebraska Extension describes vole runways as strips of closely clipped grass about 1 to 2 inches wide, with small holes leading down to tunnels. If you find those in the lawn in fall, plan on guards.
What Makes a Tree a Target
Young trees with thin, smooth bark are the ones at risk. Iowa State lists crabapple, apple, pear, redbud, honey locust, serviceberry, burning bush, flowering quince, barberry, roses, raspberries, and small evergreens, especially pines, as common rabbit targets. When food is scarce and rabbit numbers are high, almost any small tree is fair game.
Voles work all winter. Nebraska Extension notes they usually damage woody plants from late fall through early spring, tunneling through snow to reach the bark. The garden looks quiet while the damage builds.
Step 1: Remove the Cover They Like
This is the cheapest step and the one people skip.
- Pull mulch back at least 6 inches from the trunk (Iowa State).
- Mow and clear tall grass and weeds around each tree. Nebraska Extension found voles are less likely to cross a weed-free zone 15 feet wide.
- Remove brush piles, woodpiles, and lumber stacks near the orchard. They are vole housing.
- Pick up dropped fruit. Leftover fruit draws rodents to the tree (NC State Extension).
- Keep straw or leaf mulch off the trunk and crown area.
Step 2: Build the Cylinder
Materials: quarter inch galvanized hardware cloth, tin snips, gloves, and something to fasten the seam.
- Cut a piece long enough to wrap the trunk with at least a 1 inch overlap at the seam.
- Make the diameter big enough for the trunk to grow. Do not wrap it tight against the bark.
- Set the cylinder so the bottom is buried 2 to 3 inches into the soil (Iowa State, Nebraska). Where pine voles are a problem, go 6 inches down.
- Fasten the seam with wire or zip ties so no gap opens up.
- Height: at least 18 inches above your normal snow depth if rabbits are around. Penn State says rabbits feed 2 to 3 feet up depending on snow, so tall snow years call for a taller guard.
| Guard spec | Number | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Mesh size | Quarter inch (0.25 in) or smaller | Nebraska Extension, Penn State |
| Height above snow | At least 18 in, up to 24 in | Nebraska Extension, Iowa State |
| Height above ground in a low snow area | 24 to 36 in total fence | Iowa State |
| Bottom buried | 2 to 3 in, or 6 in where pine voles live | Iowa State, Nebraska Extension G887 |
| Seam overlap | At least 1 in | Nebraska Extension, G887 |
| Distance from trunk | 1 to 2 in of clearance | Penn State, Iowa State |
| Useful life | About 5 years for galvanized cloth | Nebraska Extension, G887 |
A note on height: Iowa State's fruit tree FAQ says to run the guard 10 to 12 inches above expected snow depth, while the same extension's general animal damage page says 18 to 24 inches. Penn State reports rabbit damage 2 to 3 feet up depending on snow. When the sources disagree, go with the taller number, especially if your snow drifts.
Step 3: Other Options
- Plastic spiral wraps or corrugated guards. Fast to install and easy to reuse. Check them in late winter, since they can trap moisture against the bark.
- PVC pipe or drain tile. Slit it down one side, fit it around the trunk, and leave it loose. Nebraska Extension notes this also helps with deer rub.
- Chicken wire. Fine for rabbits but the holes are too big for voles. Pair it with hardware cloth if you have both.
- Paper tree wrap. Not a vole barrier on its own. Any wrap needs to come off once the snow is gone so moisture does not rot the bark underneath.
Repellents are the weakest tool here. Nebraska Extension calls results variable. Penn State notes that most deer repellents wash off in rain or snow, and extremely hungry deer ignore them. Use them on top of guards, not instead of them.
Step 4: Check Through Winter
Walk the trees after each heavy snow. Snow raises the feeding height for rabbits and gives voles a roof. Clear snow from around guards if it piles up above the top. Push back any mulch that has crept in against the trunk.
Step 5: Take Guards Off in Spring
This step matters. A guard left on all year can restrict growth or girdle the tree on its own (Iowa State). Remove guards in spring, typically April, once the snow is gone and the risk has passed. Store them somewhere you will find them in October.
If the Damage Is Already Done
- Partly girdled: the tree may heal over. Do not paint or wrap the wound. Iowa State says wound dressings and pruning paints do not repair animal damage. Keep the tree watered through spring and summer and watch for insects and disease moving into the wound.
- Fully girdled: the top will die. For most homeowners, replacing the tree is the practical choice (Iowa State).
- Chewed branch tips: prune back to a healthy bud or side branch.
Next Steps
- Buy hardware cloth now. Quarter inch mesh, enough for a 24 to 30 inch tall cylinder per tree.
- Clear mulch 6 inches back from every trunk this week.
- Install guards before the ground freezes, ideally by early to mid-November.
- Mark a spring reminder to remove them in April.
- Protect the trunk from sunscald too. See how to protect fig trees in winter by zone for the wrapping side of winter tree care.
Sources
- Iowa State University Extension, How to Protect Trees and Shrubs from Animal Damage Over Winter: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/how-protect-trees-and-shrubs-animal-damage-over-winter
- Iowa State University Extension, Winter Damage on Trees: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/winter-damage-trees
- Iowa State University Extension, How should I prepare my fruit trees for winter?: https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/faq/how-should-i-prepare-my-fruit-trees-winter
- Penn State Extension, Cottontail Rabbits: https://extension.psu.edu/cottontail-rabbits
- Nebraska Extension in Lancaster County, Protecting Landscape Plants from Wildlife: https://lancaster.unl.edu/protecting-landscape-plants-wildlife/
- NC State Extension, Winter Fruit Tree Care: https://burke.ces.ncsu.edu/2021/01/winter-fruit-tree-care/
- Nebraska Extension, Controlling Vole Damage (NebGuide G887): https://cms.unl.edu/ianr/extension/wildlife/sites/unl.edu.ianr.extension.wildlife/files/media/file/controlling-vole-damage.pdf